Historic house tours are one of my favorite things to do on a rainy Sunday afternoon. Today I went to visit
Campbell House with a
Groupon I got back in December. You may have seen Groupon links on my sidebar in the past couple months, so I thought I'd show you one of my Groupon purchases.
This one was for 50% off admission, so I paid $3 in December for a Groupon that I could use any time in the next year. Other past Groupons include Symphony tickets, Blues hockey tickets, Moolah bowling, Rolling Ridge Nursery, laser hair removal, teeth whitening, and tons and tons of restaurants. It's a great way to try something new at a reduced price, and Groupon is now in over 50 cities!
There aren't a lot of people who agree with me that this is the best way to spend a rainy Sunday, so I got a private tour. My tour guide was awesome and knowledgeable about every detail of the house and restoration. However, the first time I tour a house I am usually busy geeking out over the fixtures and furnishings, and I don't think I retained a lot of detail.
For example, I know she was telling me about how Robert Campbell got his money, but I was exclaiming over the square piano, because you know I love those. I do know that he was a fur trader and entrepreneur, a word that doesn't seem big enough for all the businesses he was involved in.
The light fixtures and chandeliers in this place are AAAAAAAAMAZING. I'll tell you about the things I can remember, and if you are interested in the details of the restoration and the history of the family, that is available on the website.
The enormous mirrors at each end of the parlor make the room look ten times bigger than it actually is. You should go visit just to see this room. It's breathtaking. It was originally two parlors, but the family did so much entertaining that they knocked out a wall to combine them.
The lack of overhead lighting in some areas and the many lamps, while spectacular, make for challenging picture taking, particularly since I never use a flash in a museum or historic property. I do want to show you this, though, because it was just so cool to see what the walls looked like before they were restored, and how painstakingly the museum worked to restore the house to exactly how it looked in the late 1800s. The section under the Plexiglas looks so rough because they had the paint analyzed to get the proper colors.
You'll also notice in many of the pictures that the ceilings are stenciled as well. I'm so mad I didn't get a good picture of the dining room ceiling, because it is incredible. This is really one of the most impressive historic renovations I have ever seen. This is why the Campbell House Museum is considered one of the most accurate 19th century restorations in America, according to their website. They are even on the hunt for a cast iron stove to replace the original that was sold for scrap during WWII.
They were lucky to find a photo album of pictures of the house taken around 1875, probably for insurance purposes, and you can see those pictures displayed in each room, as well as on the website.
They were also lucky that the three sons of Robert and Virginia Campbell to survive into adulthood (out of 13 children) lived in the house until they died; James in 1890, Hugh in 1931, and Hazlett in 1938. Hugh was reclusive and was hardly seen in the last 20 years of his life, and Hazlett was probably schizophrenic. It's awkward to say that this was a boon to the museum, but it certainly kept a lot of family heirlooms in the house. Most everything you see here is original to the house, and they even have several of Virginia's dresses in storage. Above is the china (one third of the original set), another cabinet is full of silver, and another, crystal.
The second floor room above the kitchen would have been the housekeepers room. (I think. Once again I was busy examining the carpet, which is historically accurate 4' wide loom-woven and hand sewed. Ahem.) There is a nifty little display in this room that talks about the lives of the servants in this house and displays some of their possessions.
By the way, the Campbells never had slaves, although they did have a lot of indentured servants. In this area, where there was slavery, indentured servants would not have been treated much better, but at least they had a light at the end of the tunnel.
Moving back to the family quarters of the house, check out this amazing folding desk. I've never seen anything like it.
I'm sorry that this picture is about to blind you, but it's really remarkable and the room is not on the website. Notice that even though there is indoor plumbing (that's a gravity toilet) the brothers never installed a sink.
The floor is raised up from the hallway level because the pipes are under the floor, but even better, I think, is the stairs coming down from the master bedroom. There's just something about this tiny bathroom that I love. Of course I also have to point out that amazing oilcloth floor.
And here is the view from the bedroom side:
I think my favorite room in the house is the family parlor.
Check out that bookcase. They had the carpet in this room reproduced from the piece they found underneath this behemoth. There is a picture on the mantel of James when he was in the Skull and Bones Society at Yale, and they think this grandfather clock was a gift of membership. There is one like it in the group picture.
The room adjoining this one is now used for intern projects and displays, but at one time was Hazlett's bird room.
There are many taxidermy birds under glass throughout the house, including this bird of paradise:
I could go on all night, and I would still be leaving out so much. You really should check it out if you are into this kind of thing. If you are just interested in St Louis history, I highly recommend checking out the website because they have a book's worth of family and neighborhood history and I spent hours reading through it tonight. I will leave you with a couple pictures of the carriage house and the original St Louis "license plates."
Campbell House is located at 1508 Locust Street in Downtown St Louis (next to the YMCA). They are open Wednesday through Saturday 10am to 4pm and Sundays 12pm to 4pm. Admission is $6.